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It’s still rock ’n’ roll to me

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lowtech
lowtech

I SAW DALLAS Green last month at Massey Hall. He was brilliant. He was funny and bright, and he intelligently hushed any annoying “who-hooers” in the crowd. His lyrics are like poetry. And he still listens to his mother. During the concert, he recounted her advice on his shirt selection: “You’re not going to wear that shirt are you?” Typical mother’s speak. He changed.

It was the best concert I’d seen since the first concert I ever went to back when I was 14 years old. I could listen to Dallas Green all day. Well that’s what I thought, anyway.

Dallas Green, when not in mellow mode, plays in my 13-year-old son’s favourite band, Alexisonfire, or as I like to call them, “the yellers.”

My home office and my son’s bedroom share a mutual wall, so when I’m at my computer tapping away, my son’s loud iTunes selections are chipping drywall flakes onto my keyboard. Besides the yellers, he enjoys rap, which includes a lot of heavy bass. Bass, I’ve discovered, makes me feel old. I find myself clutching my chest with every vibration and pleading with my son to “turn it down,” just like my mother used to say to me back in the day.

When I was growing up, our hi-fi was located in our living room so everyone had access to it. With eight siblings, album selection was eclectic to say the least. Everything from my parents’ Benny Goodman to my siblings’ Blood, Sweat & Tears; John Denver; Earth, Wind & Fire; Led Zepplin; and George Carlin comedy albums could be heard spinning in our house.

Our driveway was the site of another musical innovation from the ’70s: the eight-track tape player. My sister had a rust-coloured Vega that barely turned over. It spent most of its life parked under our chestnut tree, gathering sap, but the one reason my dad never had it towed was its state-of-the-art eighttrack. We took turns sitting in the driveway playing the two huge eight-track tapes she got with the car: America’s History and The Best of the Guess Who. I have many memories of being a kid in my pyjamas, sitting in the back of that Vega, singing along to “Horse with No Name” over and over again. The car was parked. Bizarre childhood, I know.

My son’s favourite band is Alexisonfire, or as I like to call them, “the yellers.”

In the ’80s, my teen years, I moved away from the eight-track. My life was filled with the latest thing: cassette tapes. I had cassettes of the Clash, Bruce Springsteen and the Who. (My brother had a great influence on my musical tastes at the time.)

As I said, I went to my first concert when I was 14 years old. I had to beg my mother to let me go. The concert was in Buffalo, and I wanted to tag along with my brother, his girlfriend and his best friend to see the Who’s farewell tour. It later turned out to be one of many such farewells. After months of negotiations and a sworn affidavit that my brother would never leave my side, my mum gave in and we headed south of the border. It was a life-changing experience, and I remember all the details.

As soon as we passed through the gates of the stadium, my brother ditched me for his girlfriend, and I was stuck with his buddy. Lost in a sea of bodies near the stage, I ended up perched on my brother’s buddy’s shoulders all night, watching a shirtless Roger Daltry swinging his microphone. Having shared such an intimate experience, the buddy felt the need to try and kiss me during the final encore. I’d never felt someone else’s tongue in my throat before (and not in a good way). It was an evening of firsts.

The ultimate ’80s gift between suitors was the mixed tape. It took countless hours of splicing and precise song placement in order to express yourself through music. My son’s equivalent is the iPod playlist. Unlike the mixed tape, it is an instantaneous expression of love.

Kids barely listen to the radio any more because they can plug their own iPods into docks in the car or around the house or into any computer. My son has no idea what a CHUM Chart is, and when I asked him who Casey Kasem was, he replied, “Is it a boy or girl?”

Kids are now in the musical driver’s seat and are rarely subjected to their parents’ horrible tastes. What I would have given for an iPod in 1979 to escape my Dad’s Nana Mouskouri tapes! YouTube has also transformed musical exposure by making concert video clips immediately accessible. The result is that the live concert experience seems to have lost much of its mystery and intrigue for the new concert-goers.

Even so, my son just heard that Alexisonfire is going on tour this summer. It scares me that he is old enough to see a live show. We were talking about it in the car the other day when the Who came on the radio. We both started singing along. Suddenly, I didn’t feel so old. I remembered how great it was to experience my favourite band live at his age. The flood of memories hit me from that night at Rich Stadium, 1982. I realized that experiencing a “live” concert on YouTube isn’t so bad after all. Heck, he can even turn up the bass full blast.

I won’t say a word.

Post City Magazines’ resident low-tech mom, Jack Hourigan, is the host of Slice Network’s Three Takes and a freelance writer living in Toronto.

Jamming freshly picked berries into your life

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secretrecipeberry
secretrecipeberry

There’s never a more delicious food to serve in July than an array of fresh berries. Blueberries, strawberries or raspberries can be added to your salads, main courses, grain dishes, desserts or simply enjoyed on their own. The best news is that they come fresh to our door from the Ontario Greenbelt. Berries are termed a “superfood,” which is full of antioxidants, vitamins, minerals and fibre. Berries are low in fat, carbohydrates and calories. They help protect our immune system and may even help prevent heart disease, dementia and certain cancers as well as slowing the aging process.

Strawberry & Spinach Salad

Blueberry & Mango Strudel

Lemon & Raspberry Couscous

Rose’s tip: Pick your own!

The summer is the best time to forego the grocery store. Go pick your own fruits and berries at the farms around the GTA. They are fresher than the store-bought berries, since you are picking them yourself. They are often cheaper as well. A farm that I like is Whittamore’s Farm, just beside the Rouge River Valley in Markham, on Steeles. The 220-acre fruit and vegetable farm lets you pick your own fruits and veggies or, you can buy them at their little market, freshly picked that day. Get out of the city and let your whole family enjoy this little trip and find out how fruits and berries really grow. Kids can enjoy Fun Farm Yard or visit farm animals while you pick your harvest. They even do birthday parties, but bring your own cake.

Post City Magazines’ culinary columnist, Rose Reisman, is author of 17 cookbooks, a TV and radio personality and a health and wellness expert. Visit Rose at www.rosereisman.com.

Local band gives new meaning to divine inspiration

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graduate 1
graduate 1

ALAN WITZ, DRUMMER and one of the founding members of Junonominated funk fusion collective God Made Me Funky, says he remembers his years as a student at York Mills Collegiate Institute as a time when he was given the opportunity and encouragement to hone his craft through hours of practise and performance.

And now, with his band on the cusp of releasing their highly anticipated fourth album, Welcome To Nu Funktonia, it’s clear those years of hard work are finally paying off.

“Hopefully this will be the biggest album yet,” says Witz, “The first single is a remake of the Triumph classic ‘Lay It on the Line’ with Jully Black singing. It’s definitely big for us.”

The band is a fan favourite on the local music scene, something Witz attributes to the band’s unique sound and high-energy shows.

“Our live act is all about being loud and fun, more in the spirit of Earth, Wind & Fire or Kool & the Gang than that of a modern R and B act where everyone is very cool and dapper and not really moving very much,” he says.

REPORT CARD


STUDENT Alan Witz
GRADUATED York Mills Collegiate, 1989
BEST SUBJECT Physics
WORST SUBJECT English
CURRENT JOB Drummer, God Made Me Funky

From the group’s humble beginnings as a five-piece instrumental funk and jazz cover band, they have seen their star rise over the past 11 years as they began adding vocalists and rappers and performing their own songs.

Now as a nine-piece ensemble, they’ve played with a who’s who on the Canadian music scene, including Divine Brown, Melissa O’Neil and Bedouin Soundclash.

Witz’s passion for music runs deep, and he credits his mother’s early influence with setting him on his current path. She enrolled him in his first drum lessons at seven years old, and he has continued to play ever since.

“My mother played guitar in an all-female rock band in South Africa in the ’60s called the Amazons,” he says with a chuckle. “She thought that music was really important.”

By high school, Witz found himself performing as part of the school band and orchestra in productions of Grease and Little Shop of Horrors and also taking on gigs playing at local university parties with his band After Hours.

He says he recalls one teacher at that time in particular, Mr. Slobodian, who pushed him to take his musical performance to the next level.

“He was just a very likeable guy,” Witz recalls. “He was very big into jazz and had a way of inspiring students without yelling at them. He was a big influence on my playing.”

Now, with more than a decade of success under Witz’s belt, those early lessons are paying off.

Wine labels 101

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wine 1
wine 1

YOU’RE STANDING IN the liquor store surveying a bewildering regiment of wines. What motivates you to reach for one particular bottle: price, cute little critter on the label, colour? Or do you actually pick up the bottle and read the label front and back? You should; otherwise, you might not be buying what you think you are.

For instance, if you wanted to support the local industry by buying an Ontario wine, look for the VQA symbol. If it’s not there, turn to the back label and you’ll see in miniscule letters the words “Cellared in Canada.” This tells you that the wine you are purchasing is made of up to 70 per cent offshore material blended with Ontario wine. So that Cabernet Sauvignon with the familiar looking Ontario label will be coming mainly from Chile or South Africa or California’s Central Valley.

Every wine label must contain the producer’s name and address, the name of the wine, grape variety, its colour, the vintage, the percentage of alcohol by volume and the contents of the bottle (usually 750 ml or 350 ml for half bottles, 1,000 ml for Tetra Paks). Even the size of the typeface for each entry is regulated.

The alcohol level will give you a clue as to the weight of the wine and usually the concentration of flavour and hefty mouth-feel. A wine of 13 per cent alcohol or greater will be full-bodied, such as a California Chardonnay, while a German Riesling at eight per cent alcohol will be light-bodied. But the alcohol reading is never exact since the level can change with time in the bottle, so producers are allowed a one degree tolerance in their declaration on the label.

The vintage date on the label tells you the harvest year. This, however, is not always the case when it comes to Icewine. If growers had to leave the grapes on the vine until January or February in order for the berries to freeze solid, they will date the wine from the previous year.

If you find no vintage date anywhere on the bottle this means that the wine is a blend of two or more different years. And a single grape variety noted on the label does not necessarily mean that the wine is made 100 per cent from that variety.


LCBO WINE BUYING TIPS


Producers can blend in up to 15 per cent — 25 per cent of another variety depending on the local wine laws. If the percentage exceeds 15 per cent, then both grapes will appear on the label with the major partner written first (as in Henry of Pelham Cabernet Merlot).

The term “Meritage” on a label refers to a Bordeaux-style blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. A white Meritage will be Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon.

Back labels can give you other useful information. Producers use them to offer technical information about the harvest and winemaking procedures, how long the wine was aged in oak and what the flavour profile is. They may also recommend the optimal serving temperature and food matching suggestions.

So next time you go wine shopping, study the label on the bottle. You can impress your dinner guests with your expertise.

Post City Magazines’ wine columnist, Tony Aspler, has written 14 books on wine and food. Tony also created the Ontario Wine Awards. He can be heard on 680News.

Fusion eatery shows potential

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Screenshot2009 08 06at2.32.54PM

STRIKING STACKED STONE veneer treatments in natural brown hues along one wall and under the open bar are the decorative highlight of the modern, funky high-ceilinged room. Although no printed wine list exists, bottles of red and white on horizontal display behind Mid Eastro’s bar add visual interest, and a mounted television broadcasts strange recorded stills of colourful sunsets.

Mustard-coloured napkins pose over black linens on tables and banquettes; green plants line the entrance and windows and contribute a fresh feel to the otherwise dark, loungey space of dark woods and like-coloured tile floors. Everything — including the bathrooms — is spotless.

The menu of Mediterranean and Middle Eastern plates (mostly salads, fish and seafood, with a notable smattering of Italian classics such as minestrone soup and fettuccini alfredo) is hit and miss. Ingredients are fresh,  but frequent substitutions (unannounced) throw us for loops from start to finish.

Warm slices of fresh-from-the-oven whole grain loaf line a dark wooden breadbasket, playing partner to a platter of balsamic puddled in olive oil; excellent nutty, chunky pesto; and average tapenade stretched thin by water instead of olive oil.

A cornucopia of deep-fried items make up the Moroccan platter ($10).

Two unexceptional vegetarian falafel dense with parsley rub shoulders with a pair of pastry-wrapped beef cigars, kubbe (bulgur enveloping ground beef and onion spiced with cumin and allspice), and two arancini (tomatoey deep-fried risotto balls pregnant with cheese).
A squirt more of lemon would have added balance to the nutty tahini dip, and a flash of green vegetable, even decorative, would have done visual wonders for the assembly.

A hefty serving of fresh, soft goat cheese explains the steep price tag of the warm portobello mixed green salad ($12), but where are the mixed greens and the portobellos? Instead, we are brought romaine and radicchio lettuces tossed in balsamic vinaigrette with a stir of warm cremini, porcini and button mushrooms.

A single sliced orange baby tomato adds colour.


"Cheque Please"

MID EASTRO

1200 Highway 7 West
905-889-0060
Dinner for two excluding tax, tip and alcohol:

$80


The best catch arrives in the form of generous linguini seafood alfredo ($26). A simple white wine and tomato sauce lets the freshness and flavours shine of clams, mussels, bursting scallops and mammoth shrimps. Wonderfully al dente noodles twirl playfully on the fork. Our leftover slices from the breadbasket go to good use sopping up the remaining sauce.

Double-cut lamb chops ($32) are grilled slightly past the requested rare; appeasing the disappointment is the ginormous seven-boned serving. A lemon- and-thyme-dominated spice rub craves more intensity, but the balance of flavours is certainly on the right track.

Black olive slices dot the slightly dry stock-infused couscous; an arrangement of grilled veg — two long spears of zucchini and red and yellow pepper wedges — remain firm and flavourful. A dollop of cold, jam-like stewed apricot-tomato sauce shows the kitchen’s creativity and adds pep to each of the plate’s other elements.

Our server, one of two working the room, arrives with a smile each time. But with just three tables of diners on this night, we are surprised by the slow preparation of our order — especially since a nearby table of three, dressed to the nines, makes their way through three off-the- menu hot courses before our appetizers make an appearance.

Mother’s Day meatball free-for-all

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NYCUmamaMay
NYCUmamaMay

1ST PLACE
BELLE OF THE ’BALL


NINO D’AVERSA, 7287 Yonge St., 905-881-7393
“It’s like real Italia,” says Mama Rosa after a big bite. The secret to an authentic meatball sandwich is in the meat, says Mama, and the folks at Nino’s appear to have it figured it out. “You know the meatball has spent some time simmering in the meat sauce. They’ve met before!” she says with a laugh. Perfectly moist without being sloppy, and the spicy notes are just right, says Mama. Salute! Price: $6.25

 SILVER MEDALIST


Boccone Deli and Pizza,
1378 Yonge St.
Fresh Italian bun, lively sauce and fiery peppers match well. Overall, a great sandwich at a fair price. Price: $6.25

THE VEAL DEAL


Commisso Bros., 8 Kincort St.
Visually appealing and packing a mighty flavour punch. Mushrooms, cheese and “perfect spiciness” add dimensions of flavour. Two thumbs up from Mama. Price: $5.25

MEAT, MEET SAUCE


California Sandwiches,
3703 Chesswood Dr.
Decent sauce, but the meat wasn’t baked in it, Mama suspects, and too much bread crumb. Average value. Price: $5.55

NOT-SO-GREAT BALLS OF FIRE


Bitondo Pizzeria,
11 Clinton St.
“This is like a sloppy joe,” says Mama. “It’s not really meaty.” Flavourless cheese and bland, soggy bread leave her feeling uninspired. Price: $5.25

Franco is back!

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Screenshot2009 08 04at7.47.09PM

FRANCO AGOSTINO’S RESUME includes a number of Toronto’s finest restaurants, including acclaimed establishments Il Posto Nuovo, Caffe Doria and Banfi. After a hiatus, Agostino is set to open a new Midtown restaurant, appropriately named Agostino’s.

The restaurant is located directly across from Centro in the Yonge and Eglinton area, and should be opening early this month.  “We figured the neighbourhood could really use another Italian restaurant,” Agostino says and laughs. The restaurant takes over for Chakra, an Indian restaurant that closed up three months ago.

After selling his last venture, Imperia in Yorkville, and facing a stressful time in his personal life, Agostino spent the last year in and out of Italy reconnecting with friends and family and working in small villages off the beaten path.

“I ended up cooking with these old women in 10 villages,” Agostino explains. “They make everything by hand, and some of the recipes are hundreds of years old. It was the most fascinating time, just wonderful.” 

Agostino plans on bringing in different ingredients and putting them front and centre on the new menu. “Ingredients will be very highly respected on this menu — ingredients and the seasons," he says.  Teh restaurant has 80 seats in the dining room and 40 in the bar area.

Agostino’s is located at 2497 Yonge St.

What about kebab?

Danny Farbman had a culinary pedigree long before opening the doors to his latest eatery, Shoom Shoom, on Bayview Avenue north of Steeles in Thornhill. Alongside his father, Farbman launched and runs the What A Bagel chain in the GTA, and he also opened Mashu Mashu in the lower Forest Hill village. His latest effort doesn’t stray far from a tried-and-true concept: grilled meals and fresh Middle Eastern salads — affordable, fresh and delish.

Shoom Shoom, which translates to “Garlic Garlic,” is a family restaurant with 120 seats open every day, serving brunch seven days a week from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. “I like this neighbourhood,” says Farbman, of the Thornhill community he is hoping to serve from his new locale.

Shoom Shoom is located at 7355 Bayvew Ave., 905-731-8200

Grease is the word

The opportunity to sample all the menu items on offer at BMO Field during this year’s Toronto Football Club season was too good to pass up. Then again, after consuming enough greasy food to feed a small village, I felt like passing out.

The event, with chef Robert Bartley expertly guiding the samplers, introduced a number of new menu items alongside the tried-and-true staples that the TFC faithful devour with gusto. The first being something called a Chip Butty. Translation: French fry sandwich with white bread and butter. The “Butty” was followed up by an onslaught that included something called a Scotch egg (hard-boiled egg, ground beef encased in panko bread crumbs and fried), curry fries and fried mac ’n’ cheese fritters. By the time the Nathan’s Famous hot dog was rolled out, it actually seemed like a healthy alternative (It’s not!). This was followed up by a chicken roti that was, that’s right, fried. The star of the day was the simple, and very Toronto, peameal bacon sandwich, along with a tangy meatball sandwich and a grilled vegetable ciabatta.

The concept is a simple one: hand-held food that complements the consumption of cold beer. None of the items required use of a fork or knife, and most would be ideal at the end of a long night at the pub.

Campy cuisine

Where do the aging patrons of the venerable Queen West hard rock lounge Bovine Sex Club go when they grow up? That question inspired the creation of Watusi, a new restaurant and bar on red-hot Ossington Avenue.

Located in a former karaoke bar, Watusi features a ’50-’60s vibe, and an eclectic dinner menu complemented by serious cocktail offerings. Fans of the hit TV show Mad Men should have no trouble envisioning the concept.

Watusi is the brainchild of North Yorker Darryl Fine, owner of Bovine as well as Shanghai Cowgirl, who often drives Ossington to and from work on Queen West from his home near St. Clair and Christie.

“I noticed this older fellow sitting in front who kind of looked like Frank Sinatra sitting in front of this blacked out karaoke bar,” says Fine. “I stopped and asked him if he was having trouble renting out the space.”

Fine and his wife Jill Dickson partnered up with Alan Thomson (Sotto Voce) to develop the campy cocktail lounge theme. Characterized by a cool, retro design assisted by John Tong, of 3rd Uncle design, Watusi features an upscale, bistro menu for the dining set and a cool cocktail list for the lounge crowd.

“We wanted to do something people weren’t doing,” says Fine. “It is more of a blend of dining and night life. It’s pretty diverse — grown-up Bovine and Cowgirl customers meet displaced College Street hipsters.”

Watusi is located at 110 Ossington Ave., 416-533-1800.

Stadtländer returns

Acclaimed chef Michael Stadtländer will be preparing a special all-Ontario tasting menu at Globe Bistro for one night only along side Globe chef Kevin McKenna.

Tickets for the May 6 event are $175 with proceeds to support Toronto East General Hospital Foundation.  For more information phone 416-466-2000.

Scuttlebutt

The estimable Perigee, in Toronto’s Distillery District and owned by Victor Brown, closed its doors last month. From opening in 2003, Chef Patrick Riley garnered acclaim for his inventive cuisine and expansive tasting menus until his departure in 2007. Chris Brown, one of the two sons of the owner working at Perigee, took over the kitchen in 2007 and it didn’t skip a beat. Michael Brown handled sommellier duties.

CopaCabana, the “authentic Brazilian Churroscaria,” based in Niagara Falls is rumoured to be opening up shop in Midtown on Eglinton Avenue East.

Fresh and funky fare

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Screenshot2009 08 05at12.58.48PM

FRESH AND FABULOUS is the formula here, with a hopping room and a star-studded menu of Italian classics that sate young and old, famished and fickle. Tables are packed in tight, lit by domed rectangular candles, and conversation seems communal. This is not a place for provocative powwows.

The menu divides into appetizers, salads, pizzas, pastas and mains, keeping on the straight and narrow with traditional offerings.
The fresh calamari griglia appetizer knocks our socks off ($12). Each morsel of grilled squid meat is perfectly tender without a hint of rubberyness.  Its natural sweetness is enhanced with garlic and fresh herbs. Fruity, meaty kalamata olives and oven-roasted tomatoes contribute welcome complexity, and a mound of blonde frisee rounds out the ensemble. A squiggle of balsamic-honey reduction swims in a puddle of olive oil alongside. A perfectly balanced plate.

Balsamic also plays a role in insalata di spinaci con funghi ($10), this time as a just-bold- enough vinaigrette lightly drizzled onto fresh, crisp baby spinach leaves and a stir of sautéd diced earthy mushrooms. A substantial sprinkling of grated pecorino romano cheese, made from sheep’s milk, gives the toss a sharp edge. Toasted almond slivers add crunch.

Only a pizza pro would be able to tell that the pies popping from the cookhouse here, delivered on wooden slats, were not prepared in a traditional pizza oven.

Crisp house-made crusts are almost rectangular in shape, playing pedestal to 11 meaty, mushroomy or cheesy options. Control freaks create their own ($19) from a list of ingredients that includes all the standards but also the likes of clams, eggplant, fennel, smoked salmon, brie, tuna, truffle oil and pesto.


"CHEQUE PLEASE"

STRATTO WINE & GRILL

1977 Avenue Rd.
416-322-0700
Dinner for two excluding tax, tip and alcohol:

$60


The Carlotta sees slices of kicky Italian sausage, beautifully bitter rapini (not mushy!) and roasted garlic jostling for space under a blanket of mozz ($15) while the Stratto Select compiles potato, rosemary, chicken and Gorgonzola with roasted garlic-infused olive oil ($17).

Stratto hand rolls their own gnocchi, as evidenced by the soft, pillowy dumplings tossed with sautéd chicken bites, sweet and salty Gorgonzola dolce and big chunks of walnuts ($16). We are grateful for the restrained portion, as it would be easy to overindulge in this favourite.

Other pastas on offer run the gamut: from spaghetti Bolognese to linguine with mussels, clams, shrimps, calamari and scallops.

Veal, chicken and seafood dominate the list of mains.

A trio of treats in the house- made dessert sampler ($6) both sates sweet tooths and pleases palates. Finely diced strawberries in balsamic tumble down around a cube of mild vanilla mousse; fresh mint leaf decorates airy tiramisù;    and    popping blueberries and sweet raspberries swim in a chocolate- drizzled citrusy pudding that tastes almost like lemon sorbet in cream form. Ideal portions for a first-class finish.

Cozy resto packs a lot of flavour

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Screenshot2009 08 05at1.21.35PM

WE ARRIVE WITH a basketful of preconceptions. What to expect from a place where the only identifier is a miniscule scribble on the overhang of an awning? An acknowledged hot spot for the young and gorgeous, the question is — is there anything for us foodies here to eat?

The menu is a mixed bag, ranging from bar snacks, through small and large plates. Le Petit Castor does something unwise that I find annoying — they charge $3 for bread and spread that, at this meal, is a boring hummus and a dairy-free pear butter. To be sure, the loaves do bear the Thuet pedigree, but it is stale. If they want me to pay for this, it had better be perfect.

Three kinds of poutine are offered ($9 for plain and $18 for lobster), but we opt for the retro fave Devils on Horseback. This translates into five dates stuffed with blue cheese and wrapped in bacon. The kitchen has achieved the near impossible by cooking the bacon wrappers to a perfect crispness without sacrificing the sweetness of the fruit or creaminess of the filling ($10).


“CHEQUE PLEASE”

LE PETIT CASTOR
1118 Yonge St.
416-968-7366
Dinner for two excluding
tax, tip and alcohol:
$75

House cured salmon is served with capers, crème fraîche and “blinis.” Everything looks right, and the salmon is of high quality, but this is not the Russian Tea Room, and the three “blinis” are dry and leaden ($9).

Mac and cheese is this year’s darling, and each boîte contributes its own spin, Castor’s being the addition of pulled brisket. The beef pulls without being stringy and is juicy from a long marinade. The pasta serving is huge, but the white cheddar that binds it is so compelling that it all vanishes ($17).

Grilled yellow fin tuna with niçoise garnish is grilled to perfection, with each slice singed around the edges and rare in the centre. The niçoise could use a little oomph and has not really partnered well with the fish. Frites arrive as a side order and are wicked.

The dessert list is short, and we are content to share one and go for my old favourite, crème brûlée. Everything looks normal, but instead of the usual crackle, when I hit the top, it goes squishy and then silent. The sugar topping has not been sufficiently torched, and without the amber top, it is just pudding.

Verdict? Mostly good. Despite the pretty people buzz, there is solid culinary happenings afoot. Some attention to detail would help with the fine strokes. And, I’m thinking, free bread!

 

These plants are made for the shade

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Screenshot2009 08 05at1.52.40PM

CITY GARDENERS OFTEN lament that with each passing year their gardens are becoming more and more shaded. Others complain that surrounding buildings block the sunlight.

When dealing with shade, lack of light is not the only factor to consider. Often, inadequate moisture is a concern, too. The canopy of a large tree or the overhang of a house can act as an umbrella, deflecting rainfall away from the ground beneath it.

Soil fertility may also be a problem. The roots of trees and shrubs quickly use up available nutrients in the soil. Most shade-tolerant plants prefer a well-drained, fertile soil, so if your soil is sandy or claylike, add lots of organic matter, such as peat moss, compost or well-rotted manure.

The trick to creating a beautiful, made-for-the-shade garden is to choose plants that enjoy that environment. And, there are lots of plants that tolerate low light and some that actually thrive in it. Know which plants are most likely to succeed. Here are some of my favourites:

A plant for all seasons

For colour throughout the season, annuals can’t be beat. Impatiens are a dependable standby. To light up a shady nook, I like the robust New Guinea types that sport brightly variegat- ed foliage and neon colours.

Mini begonia

Another must-try is the begonia “baby dragon wing.” This is a new mini form that is easy to grow, very heat-tolerant and blooms continuously.
For something a little different, try mimulus (monkey flower). The blooms have interesting spots and come in a variety of colours.

Fern favourite

One of my favourite shade perennial standbys is the maiden- hair fern (Adiantum pedatum). Although delicate looking, it is really very tough. It is happiest in moist, rich, well-drained soil.

Tiny thumbelina

And what would a shade garden would be without hostas? Thumbelina is a dainty little plant that has medium green leaves with a creamy-white margin and lavender flowers.

Touch of grass

Ornamental grasses are very popular right now. However, there are few that grow in shaded conditions. Carex, although technically a sedge, is a good substitute. It has grasslike, finely textured foliage that arches into moppish mounds.

Floral fantasy

If you are looking for an attractive ground cover, try bugleweed, especially under trees where grass is difficult to grow. “Chocolate chip” is a newer variety that has narrow foliage and is a dwarf with very tight growth habit. Lady’s mantle (Alchemilla) is a flower arrangers dream with its greenish gray foliage and chartreuse flowers. Faeroensis “pumila” is a dwarf variety with a very tight mounding habit.

With a little bit of forethought, it is possible to create a lovely shade garden by choosing the right plant for the right place. Most garden centres have a section devoted to shade-loving plants. You’ll have no problem finding varieties to suit your taste and garden. The real problem will be trying to limit how many you buy!

Acclaimed local jazz musician scores another Juno

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Screenshot2009 08 05at2.10.59PM
Screenshot2009 08 05at2.10.59PM

A YOUNG JANE BUNNETT touched down in Cuba in 1982 to the infectious sounds of a Cuban jazz band playing in the terminal. A second band played her onto the bus, and a third, this one an elaborate 18-piece orchestra, performed that night at her hotel. For a budding jazz saxophonist and flautist (not to mention future Juno Award winner), the experience was a formative one.

“It was pretty mind-blowing because there was just music everywhere,” says Bunnett, whose latest album, Embracing Voices, took home the 2009 Juno for the year’s best contemporary jazz album. “For a music lover, when you take a trip to Cuba, you definitely get your money’s worth. The culture of the country is just everywhere.”

The next day, Bunnett took a trip into the city, buying records and meeting musicians. She was hooked, and her musical identity took a new direction.

“[Cuban music] has influences from Africa to Europe and French, Spanish and the indigenous persons, which is a sort of Haitian influence. It’s got its own classical music, popular music, Afro-Cuban music. There’s so much to discover. It’s impossible not to rub shoulderswith music there,” she says.

At that point, Bunnett was only six years removed from Oakwood Collegiate where, surprisingly, she had been a latecomer to the instrument that would make her famous.

“My last year of high school, there, was my first on the flute,” she says. “I had played the clarinet, but I really wanted to play the flute.”

But it wasn’t music that most captivated the young student. History became her favourite subject, due in large part to teacher Larry Podmore.

“I started out as the worst student in the class, but he was such a fascinating teacher that it quickly became one of my best subjects. He really instilled a real love of history in me,” says Bunnett.

It was that same type of passion that was stoked upon touching down in Cuba back in ’82.

Fittingly, when Bunnett received word that she had been nominated for the 2009 Juno, she was in Cuba with husband and fellow musician, Larry Cramer, preparing notes for their spring and summer tour, which takes them across the country and into the U.S.

As far as the Juno win goes, Bunnett is thankful, but realistic about the process: “It could go in your favour; it could not go in your favour. So I was very lucky,” she says.

The Scents of Spring

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Screenshot2009 08 05at2.47.34PM
Screenshot2009 08 05at2.47.34PM

TAKE A DEEP breath this time of year and your nose will take you on a magical journey back to your childhood.

The air is filled with everything from the fresh perfume of May flowers to the innocent scent of sidewalk chalk. For me, my olfaction takes me back to my own memories of springtime whenever I catch a whiff of… undiluted bleach.

Bleach was my mother’s go-to cleaner when I was a kid. She used it to wipe down every surface, orifice and countertop in our house. Eleven people and a dog brought in a lot of germs, and my mom was determined to kill them all. The germs that is, although, on several occasions her lack of proper ventilation while cleaning caused toxic fumes to almost wipe us all out. She used to always say, “A little bleach never hurt anyone.” I beg to differ.

From time to time a lovely woman named Josephine came in to help my mom clean our home. Josephine’s approach to cleaning was more old school (and greener) than my mother’s. She kept it simple with plain old vinegar and water. Consequently, the annual spring clean in our house came down to a battle of cleansers, and our house ended up smelling like a fish and chips stand inside a YMCA.

Cleaning your house back in the day was more complicated. Vacuums were sold door to door by a men who wore hats and suit jackets. Now we have central vacs and vacuums that bob and weave on a patented pivoting ball technology.

Getting my son to do household chores is, well, a chore in itself. He makes up his own chore list that usually gets partially done by week’s end.

If he only knew how easy he had it. Loading a dishwasher while wearing an iPod , pushing a Swiffer across the floor and tossing a duvet on top of his bed is nothing compared to the spring cleanings of my childhood.

I remember my brother and me spending an entire day weeding the whole backyard stone patio with two dull butter knives. Now with a couple passes of a weed whacker that job can be done in half an hour.

I also recall many hours of polishing silver as a kid. According to my mother, “Chicken à la king tastes much better out of a sterling silver entree dish.” I curse people who give silver trays as wedding gifts. I think that’s just a cruel joke to play on their future kids.

When I was young, I thought every household in the future would have a high-tech “Rosie,” the robot maid from The Jetsons. Things didn’t quite turn out that way, but we aren’t that far off with all the advances in cleaning out there. I’d like to think, with the shift to go green and save our planet, my son’s idea of futuristic cleaning will be more low- than high-tech. I hope his sensory memories will include the simple smells of vinegar and water, lemons and baking soda. He could use a little less technology and a lot more perspective sometimes.

Mother’s Day is just around the corner, and I’m sure my mom will pull out her silver dishes for one of her special brunches. Perhaps I should send my son over ahead of time to do some polishing. Let him gain a little perspective and find out for himself if chicken à la king really tastes better out of a sparkling silver dish or if it’s true that inhaling a little bleach never hurt anyone!

Happy Mother’s Day!